Installing a 70mai front-and-rear dash cam takes a windshield sticker, two cable runs and one power decision, according to 70mai’s A810 and rear camera manuals: plug into the 12V socket for driving-only recording, or hardwire with the UP03 kit, which 70mai specs at 12–30V in and 5V/2.4A out, to unlock 24-hour parking surveillance. The rear camera has no power supply of its own. It runs off the front unit through a single signal wire, so the rear cable run is the longest part of the job. This step-by-step guide covers placement, routing front and rear, hardwiring at the fuse box, and the first-boot checks.
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Steps follow the official 70mai A810 user manual, the Midrive RC11/RC12 rear camera manual and 70mai’s UP03 hardwire kit specs. Kits we reference include the 70mai A810 front and rear dash cam and the 70mai UP03 Type-C hardwire kit. Vehicles differ, and 70mai itself recommends a professional installer when you’re unsure about any step.
What’s in the Box and What You’ll Need
| Item | Source | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Front camera, mount, electrostatic sticker | A810 box | The mount sticks to the sticker, not directly to the glass |
| Power cord and car charger | A810 box | For the 12V socket method |
| Wiring trim tool | A810 box | For tucking cable under the headliner and trim |
| Rear camera with lead wire, rear signal wire, electrostatic sticker | Rear camera package | The signal wire ends in a Mini USB 8-pin plug |
| MicroSD card | Sold separately | 70mai specifies at least 32GB |
| UP03 hardwire kit (optional) | Sold separately | ACC, VCC+ (constant) and GND wires; USB-C to the camera |
| Add-a-fuse taps, circuit tester, crimper | Your toolbox | Only for hardwiring |
Key Specs for Planning
| Part | Spec (70mai) |
|---|---|
| A810 front camera input | 5V, 2A |
| A810 front resolution / lens | 3840 × 2160; 150° FOV, F1.8 |
| RC11/RC12 rear camera | 1920 × 1080; input 5V, 0.9A; powered from the front unit |
| Rear connection | Mini USB 8-pin into the front unit’s AV-IN port |
| UP03 input / output | DC 12–30V in; 5V, 2.4A out via USB-C |
| UP03 cable length | 3 m (about 10 ft) |
| UP03 low-voltage cutoff | 11.4V (12V vehicles) / 22.8V (24V vehicles) on 70mai’s EU spec sheet; the U.S. Amazon listing says 11.8V |
Step 1: Format the Card and Test on the Bench
Before anything goes on the glass, put the microSD card in and power the camera from the included charger. 70mai says to format the card in the dash cam the first time you use it, since its factory format may not match what the camera needs. Plug in the rear camera too and confirm both views show in the app or on the screen. Finding a problem at the kitchen table beats finding it after you’ve tucked five meters of cable into the headliner.
Step 2: Mount the Front Camera
- Clean the glass. 70mai says to keep the windshield clean and dry, with no liquid residue, so the sticker holds.
- Pick the spot. Behind the rearview mirror, on the passenger side of it, keeps it out of your line of sight. Avoid the edge of the windshield and choose a flat, smooth area, per the manual. Keep it clear of airbags.
- Apply the electrostatic sticker. Press out the air bubbles.
- Attach the mount. Slide the mount into the camera’s mount slot, then press the camera onto the sticker.
Step 3: Route the Front Power Cable
The manual’s route is the standard one: tuck the cable into the headliner gap across the top of the windshield, down along the A-pillar under the rubber door seal, then along the dash side panel to the power source.
- Use the included trim tool to push the cable into gaps rather than prying panels.
- On the A-pillar, run the cable behind the airbag, not across its face. If the pillar has an airbag label, route along the door seal channel instead and leave the airbag path clear.
- Leave a little slack at the camera so you can still adjust its angle.
Step 4: Install and Route the Rear Camera
The RC11/RC12 manual describes three steps:
- Stick it high on the rear glass. Clean the rear windshield and apply the electrostatic sticker to the upper area, then press the rear camera onto it.
- Join the cables. Connect the rear camera’s lead wire to the rear signal wire at the joint (ports A and B).
- Route to the front. Run the signal wire along the top of the rear windshield, down the C-pillar, along the top of the side windows to the main unit, and plug the Mini USB 8-pin connector into the camera’s AV-IN port.
On an SUV or hatchback, the cable has to cross from the body to the liftgate. Many installers route it through the rubber boot that already carries the liftgate’s wiring, or keep it on the inside of the glass where the liftgate won’t pinch it. Check that the gate opens and closes freely before you trim any slack. Then adjust the angle: 70mai says to power on the main unit, switch to the rear camera view, and aim it using the preview.
Step 5: Choose Your Power Method
| 12V socket (car charger) | UP03 hardwire kit | |
|---|---|---|
| Tools | None | Fuse taps, circuit tester, crimper |
| Time | About 30 minutes for the routing | About 1–1.5 hours for most cars |
| Parking surveillance | Only if your socket stays live with the car off | Yes, 24-hour, with battery protection |
| Frees the 12V socket | No | Yes |
| Look | Visible cable at the socket | All hidden |
Step 6: Hardwire With the UP03
The UP03 has three wires: ACC (ignition-switched), VCC+ (constant battery) and GND (ground). Its job is to keep the camera powered while parked and cut it off before the battery gets too low to start the car.
- Find the fuse box. Most cars have an interior fuse panel under the dash on the driver’s side or behind a side kick panel. Your owner’s manual shows the map.
- Find a constant fuse. With the car off, use a circuit tester to find a fuse slot that’s live. Hazard lights or interior lights are typical choices. That slot gets the VCC+ wire through an add-a-fuse tap.
- Find a switched fuse. Find a slot that’s live only with the ignition on, such as the radio or 12V socket. That gets the ACC wire.
- Match the tap to the fuse type. Add-a-fuse taps come in standard ATO, mini, low-profile mini and micro2 sizes. Keep the original fuse in its slot on the tap and add a low-amp fuse for the camera circuit. Face the tap so the camera fuse is on the load side, per the tap maker’s directions.
- Ground it. Attach the GND ring to a bare metal bolt that goes into the chassis. A painted bracket or plastic panel won’t ground it properly.
- Connect the camera. Run the UP03’s USB-C plug up the same path you used in Step 3.
- Test. Ignition on: the camera should boot. Ignition off: it should switch to parking mode instead of shutting down.
Our DDPAI Z60 hardwire kit installation guide walks through the same three-wire layout on another brand, with photos of the fuse-tap orientation. If you’d rather test fuses with a meter, our multimeter guide shows how.
Worked Example: How Long Can Parking Mode Run?
The front camera is rated at 5V and 2A, and the rear at 5V and 0.9A. Those are maximum ratings, and actual parking-mode draw is usually much lower, especially in low-power or time-lapse modes. As a worst-case illustration, 5V × 2.9A ≈ 14.5W. At 12V with conversion losses, that’s roughly 1.3A from the battery. A healthy 60Ah car battery only has a modest slice of capacity to spare before starting gets hard, which is why the UP03 cuts power at a set voltage rather than letting the camera run the battery down. For long-term parking, a dedicated dash cam battery pack takes that load off the car battery entirely.
Step 7: First-Boot Checklist
- Format the card in the camera if you haven’t already.
- Set the date, time and time zone. GPS models do this automatically once they have a fix.
- Confirm the rear image is oriented correctly and the horizon is level.
- Turn on parking mode in the app if you’ve hardwired.
- Set the collision sensitivity to suit your road conditions.
- Take a test drive, then pull a clip on your phone to confirm both channels recorded.
Our 70mai A810 review covers its recording features and app settings in depth.
Tips for a Clean Install
- Coil extra cable and zip-tie it behind a kick panel instead of stuffing it under the dash where it can rattle.
- Use the trim tool, not a screwdriver, so you don’t scratch panels.
- Keep the rear wire out of the path of seat belts and sliding-door tracks in minivans.
- Take a photo of the fuse box before and after, so you can undo it later.
- If the sticker ever needs moving, replace it; reused stickers lose grip.
FAQ
Does the 70mai rear camera need its own power?
No. 70mai’s manual says the rear camera is powered by the main unit and turns on and off with it.
Where does the rear camera plug in?
Its signal wire’s Mini USB 8-pin plug goes into the front camera’s AV-IN port.
Do I need the hardwire kit?
Only for parking surveillance or a hidden install. The included car charger works for recording while driving.
What voltage does the 70mai UP03 cut off at?
70mai’s EU spec sheet lists 11.4V for 12V vehicles and 22.8V for 24V vehicles. The U.S. Amazon listing states 11.8V, so check the label on your kit.
What size memory card does it need?
70mai specifies a microSD card of at least 32GB, formatted in the camera before first use.
Can I install it on a truck or 24V vehicle?
The UP03 accepts 12–30V input, so it covers 12V and 24V systems, per 70mai.
Bottom Line
A 70mai front-and-rear install comes down to clean glass, careful cable routing and a smart power choice. Plug into the 12V socket if you just want driving footage. Hardwire with the UP03 if you want parking surveillance and a hidden install, using one constant fuse, one switched fuse and a solid chassis ground. Test everything before you tuck the last cable, and you’ll have a clean setup that records both directions every time you drive.