Starlink’s two main dishes for travelers draw very different amounts of power: the Starlink Mini averages 25 to 40 watts, while the Standard averages 75 to 100 watts, according to SpaceX’s official specification sheets for each kit. That single number shapes almost everything else about running them in an RV, van or campsite: battery size, solar array, whether you need an inverter, and how much the setup weighs. The Mini is a 2.43-pound dish with Wi-Fi built in that runs on 12–48V DC or 100W USB-C. The Standard is a larger 6.4-pound dish with a separate Wi-Fi 6 router and an AC power supply. I use a Starlink Mini on the road, so this guide pairs Starlink’s published specs with what I’ve measured, plus worked battery and solar estimates for both.
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Specs are from Starlink’s Mini and Standard specification sheets (the Standard sheet covers the current “Standard 4 X” kit). My own power readings come from running a Mini off a BLUETTI Elite 30 V2, which you can see in this video.
The short answer
For most RVers, van owners and campers who move often and run on batteries, the Starlink Mini is the easier fit: about a third of the power, roughly a third of the weight, no separate router and direct 12V or USB-C power. The Standard makes more sense for a rig that parks for weeks at a time on shore power or a large battery bank, needs wider Wi-Fi coverage or more devices, or sits where heavy snow is a real concern.
Starlink Mini vs Standard: spec table
| Spec | Starlink Mini | Starlink Standard (4 X kit) |
|---|---|---|
| Dish size | 298.5 × 259 × 38.5 mm (11.75 × 10.2 × 1.45 in) | 594 × 383 × 39.7 mm (23.4 × 15.07 × 1.5 in) |
| Dish weight | 1.10 kg (2.43 lb) | 2.9 kg (6.4 lb) |
| With kickstand and 15 m cable | 1.53 kg (3.37 lb) | 3.8 kg (8.3 lb) |
| Average power | 25–40W | 75–100W |
| Power input | 12–48V DC, 60W; or USB-C PD 100W (20V/5A) with Starlink’s USB-C cable | Power supply, 100–240V AC, 2.5A |
| Wi-Fi | Built in: Wi-Fi 5, dual band, 3×3 MU-MIMO | Separate Router 3: Wi-Fi 6, tri band, 4×4 MU-MIMO |
| Wi-Fi coverage | Up to 112 m² (1,200 ft²) | Up to 297 m² (3,200 ft²) |
| Devices | Up to 128 | Up to 235 |
| Ethernet | 1 latching port (with Starlink plug) | 2 latching LAN ports on the router |
| Field of view | 110° | 110° |
| Weather rating | IP67 Type 4 (with DC cable and Starlink plug installed) | IP67 Type 4 (dish); router IP56, configured for indoor use |
| Operating temperature | −22°F to 122°F | −22°F to 122°F |
| Wind rating | Operational at 60 mph+ | Operational at 60 mph+ |
| Snow melt | Up to 1 in/hour | Up to 1.5 in/hour |
| Package weight | 6 lb | 14.83 lb |
Power consumption: the deciding factor off grid
Starlink rates the Mini at 25–40W average and the Standard at 75–100W average. In my own setup, the Mini drew about 22W from the Elite 30 V2’s AC outlet once it had connected and settled, which is at the low end of Starlink’s range. Startup, snow melt and heavy use push the draw higher, so plan around Starlink’s numbers rather than my lowest reading.
The Standard also loses energy if you power it from a battery, because its supply expects 100–240V AC. Running it through an inverter typically costs another 10–15% in conversion losses, and a large inverter can draw several watts on its own just being switched on. The Mini avoids that: it takes 12–48V DC directly or 100W USB-C PD, so a 12V battery can feed it through a DC adapter, or a power station can feed it from its USB-C port.
Daily energy use (estimates)
| Use pattern | Mini (25–40W) | Standard (75–100W + ~12% inverter loss) |
|---|---|---|
| 4 hours a day | 100–160Wh | ≈ 336–448Wh |
| 8 hours a day (work day) | 200–320Wh | ≈ 672–896Wh |
| 24 hours a day | 600–960Wh | ≈ 2,016–2,688Wh |
*Estimates: watts × hours. The Standard column adds about 12% for inverter losses. A full 24 hours on the Standard can use more than two kilowatt-hours, which is more than many van batteries hold.
Battery runtime: what each dish gets from common setups
| Battery | Mini at 30W* | Standard at 90W via inverter* |
|---|---|---|
| Small power station, 288Wh (e.g. BLUETTI Elite 30 V2) | ≈ 8 hr | ≈ 2.5 hr |
| 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 (1,280Wh) | ≈ 36 hr | ≈ 11 hr |
| 1kWh-class power station (1,024Wh) | ≈ 29 hr | ≈ 9 hr |
| 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 (2,560Wh) | ≈ 72 hr | ≈ 22 hr |
*Estimates use 85% of rated capacity for usable energy. Mini: Wh × 0.85 ÷ 30W. Standard: Wh × 0.85 ÷ 101W (90W plus about 12% inverter loss). Example for a 100Ah battery and the Mini: 1,280 × 0.85 ÷ 30 ≈ 36 hours. My Victron-based guide to how long a 200Ah battery runs Starlink goes deeper on the Standard side.
Solar: how many watts of panel for each
A simple sizing rule: daily watt-hours ÷ (peak sun hours × about 0.75 for real-world losses) = panel watts. With five peak sun hours, a common summer figure in much of the U.S.:
| Daily use | Mini | Standard |
|---|---|---|
| 8 hours a day | 320Wh → ≈ 85W of panel | 896Wh → ≈ 240W of panel |
| 12 hours a day | 480Wh → ≈ 130W | 1,344Wh → ≈ 360W |
| 24 hours a day | 960Wh → ≈ 256W | 2,688Wh → ≈ 715W |
*Estimates using the top of each dish’s power range. With three peak sun hours in winter, multiply the panel size by about 1.7. In practice, I’ve kept a Mini going with a 60W panel and a small power station during daytime use; you can see the numbers in my BLUETTI Elite 30 V2 and 60W solar panel review. A Standard running all day realistically wants a roof full of panels or a 200W-plus flexible panel paired with a large battery, like the setup in my BougeRV Arch Pro 200W review.
Wiring each dish in an RV or van
Starlink Mini
- From a power station: plug the included power supply into an AC outlet, or use a 100W USB-C PD port with Starlink’s USB-C to barrel cable. Starlink’s sheet requires 100W at 20V/5A minimum for USB-C.
- From a 12V battery: the Mini accepts 12–48V DC at 60W, but a car’s 12V socket sags under load, so many owners use a step-up adapter that outputs a steady higher voltage. I’ve tested several, including the STARGEAR 12V to 30V adapter.
- From a Victron system: a DC-DC converter between the house battery and the Mini is a clean permanent install. My guide on powering Starlink Mini with Victron shows the wiring.
Starlink Standard
- On shore power: plug the power supply into any 120V outlet. This is the simplest RV use.
- Off grid: run the supply from a pure sine wave inverter. Size it with headroom; a few hundred watts covers the dish, and the router draws power through the same supply.
- DC conversions: some owners convert the Standard to run on DC to skip inverter losses, but that’s outside Starlink’s supported setup. My Standard Starlink inverter vs DC guide lays out both options.
Size, mounting and setup time
The Mini is roughly the size of a laptop and fits in a backpack with its kickstand. Set-up at a campsite usually means unfolding the kickstand, plugging in power and letting the Starlink app guide you to point it. The Standard’s 23.4-inch dish, kickstand, 15-meter cable, router and power supply take more room, and the whole kit ships at nearly 15 pounds. On a roof or a pole mount the size matters less; for setting up and packing away at every stop, it matters a lot.
Both dishes have a 110° field of view and use software-assisted manual orienting, so both need a reasonably clear view of the sky. Trees are the main enemy for either one.
Wi-Fi inside the rig
The Mini’s built-in Wi-Fi 5 covers up to 1,200 square feet, which is far more than any van or travel trailer. The Standard’s Router 3 covers up to 3,200 square feet with Wi-Fi 6 and two latching Ethernet ports, which helps in a large fifth wheel, at a cabin, or if you want to wire in a computer or extra access point. Both work with Starlink’s mesh nodes.
Speed and plans
Starlink doesn’t publish a single speed figure per dish, and real speeds depend on your plan, location, network congestion and sky view. Starlink positions the Standard for higher-demand households and the Mini for portability. If several people in the rig will be streaming in 4K at once, the Standard’s larger antenna and router are the safer choice. Check Starlink’s current plans for your area, since data allowances and pricing change often.
Which dish fits which traveler
| You are… | Better fit | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A weekend camper on a power station | Mini | 25–40W, runs from USB-C or 12V |
| A van dweller with 100–200Ah of lithium | Mini | Runs 1.5–3 days on a battery without solar (estimate) |
| A remote worker who moves weekly | Mini | Fast setup, small kit, built-in Wi-Fi |
| A seasonal RVer on shore power | Standard | Power isn’t a concern; wider Wi-Fi and two Ethernet ports |
| Snow-country campers | Standard | 1.5 in/hour snow melt vs 1 in/hour |
| A big family streaming on many devices | Standard | Wi-Fi 6 router, up to 235 devices |
FAQ
How much power does the Starlink Mini use compared with the Standard?
Starlink lists 25–40W average for the Mini and 75–100W average for the Standard. My Mini drew about 22W once connected, powered from a BLUETTI Elite 30 V2.
Can the Starlink Mini run directly from 12V?
Yes. Its input rating is 12–48V DC at 60W. Because 12V sockets drop voltage under load, a step-up adapter or DC-DC converter gives a more stable supply.
Can the Standard dish run without an inverter?
Not with Starlink’s supplied power supply, which needs 100–240V AC. DC conversions exist but aren’t a Starlink-supported setup.
Is the Starlink Mini good enough for an RV?
For most RVs and vans, yes. Its Wi-Fi covers 1,200 square feet and up to 128 devices, which is more than most rigs need.
Which one handles bad weather better?
Both are IP67 Type 4 rated and operate in 60 mph+ winds from −22°F to 122°F. The Standard melts snow faster, up to 1.5 inches an hour versus 1 inch for the Mini.
Does a bigger dish mean faster speeds?
Starlink doesn’t publish per-dish speed figures. The Standard is aimed at higher-demand use, but plan, location and sky view affect speed more than most people expect.
How big a solar panel do I need for the Starlink Mini?
For eight hours a day, about 85W of panel in summer sun covers it (estimate). For all-day use, plan on roughly 250W of panel plus a battery for overnight.
Bottom line
The Starlink Mini and Standard share the same field of view and weather ratings, but the Mini uses about a third of the power, weighs about a third as much and runs directly on DC or USB-C with Wi-Fi built in. That makes it the natural pick for battery-powered RV and camping trips. The Standard earns its place on a rig that stays put on shore power or a large battery bank and needs wider Wi-Fi, more devices, Ethernet or faster snow melt.