BLUETTI is pitching its new FridgePower as a battery backup built for one job: keeping a refrigerator cold when the grid drops. According to BLUETTI’s U.S. product page and the FridgePower user manual (V2.0), the unit packs 2,016Wh of LiFePO4 into a flat case about 3 inches thick that can sit on top of a fridge or hang on a wall. It switches to battery in 10 ms or less and puts out 1,800W continuous with a 3,600W surge. On Oct. 17, 2026, BLUETTI’s U.S. store listed it at $949.
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This is a spec-based review. I haven’t tested a FridgePower yet, so every number here comes from BLUETTI’s product page, its published FAQ or the user manual. Anything marked “estimate” is my own math, and I show how I got it.
The short version
The FridgePower is not a camping power station turned on its side. It has no USB ports and no 12V outlet. You get two AC outlets, a solar/DC input, an AC input and a port for extra batteries. In exchange, it’s built to stay plugged in between the wall and your fridge for years. It passes grid power through, watches for an outage and takes over without you touching anything.
- Buy it if you want hands-off backup for a refrigerator, freezer, sump pump or aquarium. It suits apartments and kitchens where a cube-shaped station won’t fit, and you never have to carry it anywhere.
- Look elsewhere if you also want to charge phones and laptops at a campsite. A regular station like the BLUETTI Elite 200 V2 is the better fit for that.
You can check current pricing and bundles on BLUETTI’s FridgePower page.
It is also sold on Amazon: BLUETTI FridgePower on Amazon.
FridgePower specifications
| Item | BLUETTI FridgePower (U.S. model) |
|---|---|
| Battery | 2,016Wh LiFePO4 (19.2V, 105Ah) |
| Cycle life | 4,000 cycles to 80% |
| AC output | 1,800W continuous, 120V/60Hz, 3,600W surge; 2 outlets |
| Bypass (grid pass-through) | 1,800W max |
| Power Lifting | Resistive loads rated 1,800–3,000W (actual output stays 1,800W) |
| AC charging | Up to 1,440W (Turbo); 1,000W Standard; 600W Silent |
| DC/solar input (XT60) | 1,000W max, 12–60V, 20A max |
| AC + DC input | 2,200W max |
| UPS switchover | ≤10 ms |
| Idle draw | About 4W; about 0.3W in remote-wake Sleep Mode |
| Noise | No more than 50 dB (BLUETTI FAQ) |
| Expansion | Up to 3 × BlueCell 200 (8,064Wh total) via a 1,440W Anderson port |
| Size | 580 × 350 × 78 mm (22.83 × 13.78 × 3.07 in) in the manual; the product page says 75 mm thick |
| Weight | About 19.7 kg (43.43 lb) |
| Temperature | Charge 32–104°F; discharge -4–104°F |
| Rating / connectivity | IP20; Wi-Fi (2.4 GHz) and Bluetooth; Alexa, Google Home and Home Assistant |
| Price (BLUETTI U.S., Oct. 17, 2026) | $949 |
What’s different about a “fridge battery”
A refrigerator is an awkward load for a battery. It runs around the clock, its compressor cycles on and off, and each start pulls a surge several times its running watts. Most of the day it draws very little. Our guide to surge watts vs running watts goes into why the start-up spike matters. BLUETTI built the FridgePower around three features that match that load.
1. Low idle draw
BLUETTI rates the FridgePower’s idle consumption at about 4W. On a station whose inverter runs 24/7, idle draw eats into runtime. BLUETTI’s FAQ says the low figure adds about 4.5 hours of fridge runtime compared with similar-capacity units.
2. Surge headroom
A 3,600W surge rating is far more than a kitchen fridge compressor needs, which leaves room for a sump pump or a coffee maker on the second outlet.
3. Always-on UPS behavior
The manual says the unit “directly draws power from the outlet to operate connected devices” and switches to battery within 10 ms during an outage. When the grid returns, it switches back and recharges itself.
Installation: three ways to place it
BLUETTI says setup takes about five minutes and needs no electrician. That’s because it’s a plug-in device: the fridge plugs into the FridgePower, and the FridgePower plugs into the wall. The manual describes three placements:
| Placement | What’s in the box for it | Notes from the manual |
|---|---|---|
| Wall-mounted (vertical) | Mounting bracket set, 6 ST8 × 40 mm screws, 6 wall anchors | Included hardware is for wood or concrete; use suitable hardware for other walls |
| Flat, e.g. on top of the fridge | 4 adjustable leveling feet | Level it on uneven surfaces |
| Mobile / carried | Handle strap and 2 washers | Not intended for mobile use unless secured with brackets and shock protection |
Leave at least 100 mm (3.94 in) clear above the unit, where air comes in, and 50 mm (1.97 in) on the left side, where it exits. Both vents have removable, washable dust filters. BLUETTI’s FAQ says garage use is fine. Keep in mind the 104°F upper limit for charging and discharging if your garage gets hot in summer.
Runtime: how long will it keep a fridge cold?
BLUETTI’s own figure is about 21.6 hours for a fridge that uses 2 kWh a day, based on its lab tests. My estimates below are a little more conservative. They assume 90% usable capacity, 90% inverter efficiency and the 4W idle draw. Most modern fridges use well under 2 kWh a day; our guide to how many watts a refrigerator uses shows how to check yours.
| Fridge daily use | Average draw | FridgePower alone (2,016Wh) | +1 BlueCell 200 (4,032Wh) | +3 BlueCell 200 (8,064Wh) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.0 kWh/day | ~42W | ~36 h (estimate) | ~3 days (estimate) | ~6 days (estimate) |
| 1.5 kWh/day | ~63W | ~25 h (estimate) | ~2 days (estimate) | ~4 days (estimate) |
| 2.0 kWh/day | ~83W | ~19 h (estimate; BLUETTI lab: 21.6 h) | ~1.6 days (estimate) | ~3.1 days (estimate) |
Here’s the math for the middle row: 2,016Wh × 0.9 × 0.9 ≈ 1,633Wh usable. Divide by 63W for the fridge plus 4W idle, and you get about 24–25 hours. Adding a chest freezer or a sump pump shortens every figure in the table, so add up all the loads you plan to plug in. BLUETTI’s own marketing says “up to 4 days” of fridge backup with the full 8,064Wh, which lines up with the 1.5 kWh/day row.
Charging it back up
The manual lists four AC charging modes, which you switch in the BLUETTI app. The default upper charge limit is 90% state of charge, and you can raise it in the app. Charge times below are my estimates from 0% to 90% and ignore the slowdown near full.
| Mode | AC max (U.S.) | Solar max | AC + solar max | 0–90% on AC (estimate) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standard (default) | 1,000W | 1,000W | 1,000W | ~1.8 h |
| Turbo | 1,440W | 1,000W | 2,200W | ~1.3 h |
| Silent | 600W | 600W | 600W | ~3 h |
| Custom | User-set limits | |||
BLUETTI says the app pulls in local weather and fast-charges before a storm, reaching full backup in about 80 minutes. It also has a Grid Self-Adaption mode, recommended when charging from a generator or a shaky grid. Any generator you use should have pure sine wave output.
Solar: wire for voltage
The solar input accepts 12–60V open-circuit and up to 20A. The manual also shows a detail that’s easy to miss. In Standard mode, input between 12V and 30V is limited to 8.2A. The full 20A only opens up above 30V. A single 12V-class panel, or a parallel bank at low voltage, will therefore charge slowly (roughly 8.2A × 18–20V ≈ 150–165W, an estimate). Wiring panels in series pushes the voltage above 30V and unlocks the higher current, as long as the total Voc stays under 60V even on a cold morning. Our guides to series vs parallel wiring and solar panel specs show how to check this on the panel label.
High Current Mode lowers the 20A threshold to 16V. The manual warns not to enable it with a 24V car outlet or a lead-acid battery as the source. For those, set the DC input source to “Others.”
UPS modes in the app
| Mode | What it does | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Standard (default) | Keeps the battery charged from solar and grid, with solar first, and takes over in an outage | Pure backup |
| Time Control | Charges off-peak, runs the loads from battery during peak hours | Time-of-use rate plans |
| PV Priority | Charges from grid and solar to a set SoC, then tops up from solar only | Homes with a few panels |
| Custom | Your own schedule, SoC limits and grid-input switches | Fine-tuning |
BLUETTI notes that this is not a server-grade UPS. It isn’t meant for data servers or workstations that need a high-performance UPS.
Settings to check on day one
- Update the firmware. The manual’s first instruction is to update through the BLUETTI app before first use.
- Leave ECO mode off. AC-ECO and DC-ECO are off by default. The manual says to keep them off for refrigerators, because ECO mode shuts the output off after a period of low load. A fridge between compressor cycles can look like low load.
- Decide on the charge limit. The 90% default is gentler on the battery. If you’d rather have every last watt-hour for outages, raise it.
- Turn on System Switch Recovery. If the battery ever runs flat, the unit will restore its AC output when it restarts.
- Set alerts. The app notifies you at 20% and 10% state of charge.
Expansion and pricing
The FridgePower connects to up to three BlueCell 200 packs through its Anderson expansion port, which is rated 1,440W, 19.2V and 75A. Per BLUETTI’s FAQ, the connecting cable is built in and about 6.5 in long. Prices on BLUETTI’s U.S. store on Oct. 17, 2026:
| Configuration | Capacity | Price | Cost per kWh (estimate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| FridgePower | 2,016Wh | $949 | ~$471 |
| FridgePower + BC200 | 4,032Wh | $1,799 | ~$446 |
| FridgePower + 2 × BC200 | 6,048Wh | $2,399 | ~$397 |
| FridgePower + 3 × BC200 | 8,064Wh | $3,246 | ~$403 |
| Display 1 (optional magnetic screen) | — | $89 | — |
The Display 1 pairs over Bluetooth and also works with BLUETTI’s Elite and Apex units. For RVs, BLUETTI suggests pairing the FridgePower with its Charger 2 alternator charger ($449) and a DC Hub to cover 12V loads, since the unit has no DC outputs of its own.
FridgePower vs a regular power station
| FridgePower | BLUETTI Elite 200 V2 | |
|---|---|---|
| Capacity | 2,016Wh | 2,073.6Wh |
| AC output | 1,800W (2 outlets) | 2,600W |
| USB / 12V outputs | None | 2 × 100W USB-C, 2 × USB-A, 12V/10A |
| UPS switchover | ≤10 ms | ≤15 ms |
| Shape | Flat, about 3 in thick, wall-mountable | Box, 13.78 × 9.84 × 12.74 in |
| Weight | 43.43 lb | 53.35 lb |
| Expandable | Yes, to 8,064Wh | No |
The Elite 200 V2 is the better all-rounder you can take camping. The FridgePower is the better appliance to leave behind the fridge permanently. For whole-house coverage, step up to a home system like the BLUETTI Apex 300, or read our breakdown of home battery backup for outages.
FAQ
Does the BLUETTI FridgePower need an electrician?
No. It plugs into a standard wall outlet, and your fridge plugs into it. BLUETTI says setup takes about five minutes.
How long does the FridgePower run a refrigerator?
BLUETTI’s lab figure is about 21.6 hours for a fridge using 2 kWh a day. My estimate is about 25 hours for a typical 1.5 kWh/day fridge, and about 4 days with three BlueCell 200 packs.
Can it run other appliances?
Yes. BLUETTI lists freezers, sump pumps, aquariums, CPAP machines, microwaves and coffee makers, as long as the total stays under 1,800W and the surge stays under 3,600W.
Can I charge it with solar?
Yes, at up to 1,000W through the XT60 input (12–60V, 20A). Wire panels in series to get above 30V; below that, Standard mode limits current to 8.2A.
How loud is it?
BLUETTI says it runs at no more than 50 dB, and there’s also a 600W Silent charging mode.
Does it have USB ports?
No. The FridgePower has two AC outlets and no USB or 12V outputs.
How thick is it?
The user manual lists 78 mm (3.07 in). BLUETTI’s product page and FAQ say 75 mm (2.95 in).
Bottom line
The FridgePower does one thing and is designed around it. It has a thin case that fits beside or on top of a fridge, a 10 ms switchover, 4W idle draw and room to grow to 8kWh. For $949, it turns a refrigerator outage into a non-event without wiring or a generator. If you need portable power for trips as well, a conventional station is the better buy. If the fridge is what you’re protecting, this is the most purpose-built option BLUETTI sells.